Chemical Exfoliation

What is chemical exfoliation?

Chemical exfoliation removes dead skin cells not by rubbing but by using acids to loosen the bonds between the cells. The top layer comes away evenly, without grains and without the micro-tears that coarse scrubs can cause. “Chemical” sounds harsh – but it usually means mild, well-researched acids in toners, serums or pads for at-home use.

The three main acid groups

• AHA (alpha hydroxy acids): water-soluble and work on the skin’s surface. They include glycolic acid (smallest molecule, strongest effect), lactic acid (milder, also hydrating) and mandelic acid (large molecule, gentle). Ideal for dull skin, dark spots and fine lines.
• BHA (salicylic acid): oil-soluble and penetrates into the pores. The first choice for oily skin, blackheads and breakouts.
• PHA (polyhydroxy acids) such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid: large molecules that absorb slowly. They exfoliate very gently, bind moisture and suit sensitive and dry skin.

There are also enzyme exfoliants (for example from papaya or rice) that gently break down the protein bonds between skin cells.

Which exfoliant suits you?

• Oily, blackheads, breakouts: BHA
• Dull, dark spots, first lines: AHA such as glycolic or lactic acid
• Sensitive or dry: PHA, lactic acid or enzymes
• Combination skin: BHA on the T-zone, PHA on the cheeks

How to exfoliate properly

1. Start slowly: Once or twice a week in the evening, after cleansing, on dry skin.
2. Don’t mix: On exfoliation evenings, no retinol, no retinal and no physical scrubs.
3. Care: Follow with soothing, hydrating care containing ceramides or panthenol.
4. Protect: Acids make your skin more sensitive to light – always use sunscreen in the morning.
5. Listen to your skin: A slight tingle is normal. Stinging, strong redness or flaking mean: take a break and exfoliate less often.

Strong peels with high concentrations or a low pH belong in a dermatology practice or a beauty salon.

Korean acid exfoliants

From our range: the BHA Blackhead Power Liquid by COSRX, the BHA 2% Gentle Exfoliating Toner by Anua, the AHA, BHA, PHA 30 Days Miracle Toner by SOME BY MI, the Eraser Shot Glycolic Acid Booster by Arencia and the Heartleaf BHA Peeling Pads by celimax. You’ll find all exfoliants in our Korean exfoliators collection.

What does the research say?

Hydroxy acids are among the best-studied cosmetic actives. A review describes how they promote cell renewal and improve skin texture (Kornhauser et al., Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2010). PHAs are particularly well tolerated and also suit sensitive skin (Grimes et al., Cutis, 2004).