Blackheads

What are blackheads?

Blackheads – the medical term is comedones – are pores clogged with sebum and dead skin cells. They mainly form where the skin produces a lot of sebum: on the nose, chin and forehead, the so-called T-zone. There are two types:

• Open comedones (blackheads): the pore is open, and the plug of sebum oxidises in the air and turns dark. Dirt isn’t the cause.
• Closed comedones (whiteheads): the pore is covered by a thin layer of skin, so the plug stays light. Spots can develop from them.

Blackheads or sebaceous filaments?

Many small grey dots on the nose aren’t blackheads at all but sebaceous filaments. They are a normal part of the skin, channel sebum to the surface and fill up again within a few weeks after squeezing. You can’t remove sebaceous filaments permanently, but the right care makes them less noticeable.

What causes blackheads?

• lots of sebum, for example due to hormones, genetics or oily skin
• clogged pores, when dead skin cells aren’t shed properly
• products that are too rich and make-up that isn’t removed thoroughly
• squeezing and rubbing, which irritates the skin

What helps against blackheads?

1. Double cleansing: a cleansing oil or cleansing balm dissolves sebum and sunscreen, then a gentle foam cleanses again.
2. BHA: salicylic acid is oil-soluble, penetrates the pore and dissolves the plug from within. Start with two to three applications a week.
3. Soften sebum: apply a sebum softener to your nose for a few minutes. It softens the plugs, which you can then gently massage away.
4. Niacinamide: regulates sebum production and makes pores look finer.
5. Don’t forget moisture: oily skin needs hydration too. A light gel cream keeps the skin barrier balanced.

Please don’t squeeze: with your fingers you often push sebum and bacteria deeper into the skin. This can cause inflammation, enlarged pores and scars. Stubborn blackheads are best removed by a beautician.

Blackheads in Korean skincare

In K-beauty, blackheads are treated with gentle, regular care rather than harsh scrubs. From our range: the BHA Blackhead Power Liquid from COSRX, the Derma Nature Fresh Blackhead Jojoba Cleansing Oil from celimax, the Bye Bye Blackhead Bubble Cleanser from SOME BY MI, the Blackhead Melting Softener Set from Jumiso, the Super Melting Sebum Softener Set from ilso and the Zero Pore Blackhead Mud Mask from medicube. You’ll find more products under Oil control & pores.

What does the research say?

Salicylic acid has been one of the standard ingredients against blackheads for decades. A review describes how, thanks to its oil solubility, it works particularly well against open and closed comedones (Arif, Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2015).