BHA

What is BHA?

BHA is short for beta hydroxy acid. In cosmetics it almost always means salicylic acid, which was originally obtained from willow bark. The big difference to AHA: BHA is oil-soluble. It can therefore penetrate through sebum into the pores and clean them from within.

On the INCI list you will find BHA as Salicylic Acid, as the milder Betaine Salicylate or as Willow Bark Extract. In cosmetics, salicylic acid is usually used at 0.5 to 2%.

How does BHA work on the skin?

• Pore cleansing: BHA dissolves sebum and dead skin cells in the pores and helps prevent blackheads.
• Blemishes: Salicylic acid has a mild anti-inflammatory effect and helps against spots.
• Pores: Clear pores look smaller and the skin looks more refined.
• Gentle exfoliation: BHA loosens dead skin cells from the surface – the skin looks smoother.

Which skin types is BHA suitable for?

• oily and combination skin with a shiny T-zone – see Oil control & pores
• blemish-prone skin with spots – see Acne skincare
• skin with blackheads and enlarged pores

Very dry or sensitive skin should use BHA sparingly. If your skin is irritated or the barrier is damaged, it’s better to take a break.

How to use BHA

1. Cleanse your face and let your skin dry.
2. Apply a BHA toner, pad or liquid – only to the T-zone if needed.
3. Leave it to work briefly, then continue with serum and cream.
4. Always use sunscreen in the morning.

Start with two to three applications a week, ideally in the evening. If your skin tolerates BHA well, you can increase the frequency. Mild BHA cleansers or toners are often suitable for daily use too.

What can you combine BHA with?

• Niacinamide regulates sebum and further refines pores
• Centella Asiatica and panthenol soothe the skin
• Hyaluronic acid replaces lost moisture
• Ceramides strengthen the skin barrier

Don’t use it in the same evening as retinol, retinal or strong AHA peels – unless the product is already formulated as a mild combination.

BHA in Korean skincare

In K-beauty, BHA is usually gently dosed and combined with soothing plant extracts such as centella, heartleaf or tea tree oil. Toner pads that distribute BHA evenly are especially popular. Well-known products include the BHA Blackhead Power Liquid from COSRX, Anua’s BHA 2% Gentle Exfoliating Toner, celimax’s Heartleaf BHA Peeling Pads and the AHA, BHA, PHA 30 Days Miracle line from SOME BY MI. Our Korean BHA & salicylic acid skincare collection has all products with BHA.

What does the research say?

Salicylic acid is one of the standard ingredients for acne and has been used in dermatology for decades. A review summarises that, thanks to its oil solubility, salicylic acid works particularly well against blackheads and inflamed blemishes while also having anti-inflammatory properties (Arif, Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2015).