Azelaic Acid

What is azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in grains such as wheat, barley and rye. A yeast that lives on our skin also produces it. Unlike AHA or BHA, azelaic acid is not a classic exfoliant, but a versatile ingredient that addresses several skin concerns at once.

In dermatology, azelaic acid has been used for decades in prescription creams and gels with 15 to 20% against acne and rosacea. In cosmetics you will usually find it at concentrations of up to 10% – or as the easily soluble derivative potassium azeloyl diglycinate.

How does azelaic acid work on the skin?

• Blemishes: Azelaic acid works against acne bacteria and keeps pores clear.
• Redness: It is anti-inflammatory and calms reddened skin.
• Dark spots: It slows down excess melanin production and fades post-acne marks and spots.
• Even complexion: Overall, the skin looks calmer and more even.

Which skin types is azelaic acid suitable for?

• blemish-prone skin and adult acne – see Acne skincare
• skin with redness and a tendency to rosacea – see Skincare for redness
• skin with dark spots and post-acne marks – see Dark spots
• sensitive skin that doesn’t tolerate AHA, BHA or retinol well

Azelaic acid is also considered one of the better-tolerated options during pregnancy. If in doubt, talk to your doctor anyway.

How to use azelaic acid

1. Cleanse your face and apply a mild toner.
2. Apply a thin layer of azelaic acid serum or cream to the whole face or to affected areas.
3. Finish with a moisturiser, and in the morning with sunscreen.

You can use azelaic acid morning and evening. A slight tingling in the first few days is normal. If your skin is sensitive, start with one application a day.

What can you combine azelaic acid with?

• Niacinamide – a strong duo against redness, blemishes and dark spots
• Centella Asiatica and panthenol for extra soothing
• Hyaluronic acid and ceramides keep the skin supple

Don’t layer azelaic acid with strong AHA or BHA peels in the same evening, so you don’t overwhelm your skin.

Azelaic acid in Korean skincare

Azelaic acid is a newer K-beauty trend. Korean brands like to combine it with hyaluronic acid, centella or panthenol for particularly gentle care for redness. Popular products include Anua’s Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum, NINELESS’ A-Control 10% Azelaic Acid Serum, medicube’s Azelaic Acid 16 BB line and COSRX’s Azelaic Acid 20 B5 Redness Soothing Cream. Our Korean skincare with azelaic acid collection has all products.

What does the research say?

Azelaic acid is a well-studied dermatological ingredient. A review summarises that it is effective against acne, rosacea and pigmentation disorders thanks to its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and brightening properties, while being well tolerated (Schulte et al., Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2015). Cosmetic products with lower concentrations work more gently than prescription preparations.