Niacinamide

What is niacinamide?

Niacinamide – Niacinamide on the INCI list – is the water-soluble form of vitamin B3. The skin uses it as a building block for important coenzymes involved in energy metabolism and cell repair. Niacinamide is so popular in skincare because it tackles many skin concerns at once and hardly ever irritates.

Typical concentrations are between 2 and 10%. Even 2 to 5% shows good results in studies; higher doses are not automatically better.

How does niacinamide work on the skin?

• Pores and sebum: Niacinamide can balance sebum production, so the skin looks less shiny and pores look finer.
• Dark spots: It slows down the transfer of pigment to the upper skin cells, for a more even complexion.
• Skin barrier: Niacinamide stimulates the skin’s own ceramide production and helps the skin retain moisture.
• Redness and blemishes: It has a soothing effect and can visibly reduce red patches and post-acne marks.
• Fine lines: With regular use, the skin looks smoother and more elastic.

Which skin types is niacinamide suitable for?

Niacinamide suits almost every skin type, especially:

• oily and combination skin with enlarged pores – find matching products under Oil control & pores
• blemish-prone skin with post-acne marks
• skin with dark spots or a dull complexion
• sensitive skin looking for a gentle alternative to acids or vitamin C

If your skin is very sensitive, it’s best to start with 2 to 5% rather than high-strength serums.

How to use niacinamide

1. Cleanse your face and apply a toner.
2. Work in a niacinamide serum or toner.
3. Finish with a moisturiser, and in the morning with sunscreen.

You can use niacinamide morning and evening. First effects on shine and skin feel appear after a few weeks; for dark spots you need about eight weeks of patience.

What can you combine niacinamide with?

Niacinamide is one of the best combination partners:

• Hyaluronic acid for hydration
• Retinol – niacinamide strengthens the barrier and can reduce retinol irritation
• BHA & salicylic acid for blackheads and blemishes
• Azelaic acid and tranexamic acid against dark spots
• Ceramides for a robust skin barrier

The old advice not to combine niacinamide with vitamin C is considered outdated for modern formulas. If your skin reacts to the combination with redness, use vitamin C in the morning and niacinamide in the evening.

Niacinamide in Korean skincare

In K-beauty, niacinamide is found in countless products – from toners and toner pads to serums and sunscreens. Combinations with tranexamic acid against dark spots, with rice extract for glow or with Centella Asiatica for blemish-prone, reddened skin are especially popular. Our Korean niacinamide skincare collection has around 500 products with niacinamide.

What does the research say?

Niacinamide is one of the best-studied cosmetic ingredients. In a study with 5% niacinamide, dark spots, redness, skin texture and fine lines improved after twelve weeks compared with placebo (Bissett et al., Dermatologic Surgery, 2005). Other research shows that niacinamide inhibits the transfer of pigment to skin cells (Hakozaki et al., British Journal of Dermatology, 2002). For concentrations above 10%, however, there is hardly any additional benefit.