Alpha Arbutin

What is alpha arbutin?

Arbutin occurs naturally in bearberry leaves, pears and blueberries. Chemically, it is a glycoside of hydroquinone. Cosmetics usually use alpha arbutin, a biotechnologically produced form that is more stable and more effective than natural beta arbutin.

How does alpha arbutin work on the skin?

• Less pigment production: alpha arbutin inhibits tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin production.
• Fading spots: dark spots, sun spots and brown post-acne marks lighten over time.
• More even tone: the complexion looks more even and radiant.
• Gentle: alpha arbutin is hardly irritating and does not make the skin more sensitive to light.

Which skin types is alpha arbutin suitable for?

• dark spots, sun spots and melasma – see skincare for dark spots
• post-acne marks
• sensitive skin that doesn’t tolerate stronger brighteners well
• all skin types with a dull complexion

How to use alpha arbutin

1. Apply a serum or cream with alpha arbutin after cleansing and toner, morning and evening.
2. Follow with a moisturiser.
3. Wear sunscreen consistently during the day – without UV protection, dark spots keep coming back.
4. Be patient: first results usually appear after 6 to 8 weeks.

What can you combine alpha arbutin with?

• Niacinamide slows the transfer of pigment to the skin’s surface – one of the most popular pairings
• Vitamin C is antioxidant and brightening
• Tranexamic acid targets a different step of pigment production
• Azelaic acid also helps with post-acne marks

Alpha arbutin in Korean skincare

A well-known example is the Glow Deep Serum Rice + Arbutin by Beauty of Joseon with 2% alpha arbutin. More examples from our range: the Niacinamide 20% Serum by TIRTIR, the Vita B3 Source by TIA'M, the AN Arbutin Niacinamide Serum by Cos De BAHA, the Dark Spot Correcting Glow Cream by AXIS-Y, the Peach 77 Niacin Essence Toner by Anua and the Alpha-Arbutin Discoloration Care Hydrogel Mask by COSRX.

What does the research say?

Lab and skin-model studies show that alpha arbutin inhibits melanin production without harming the cells (Sugimoto et al., Biological & Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 2004). The EU’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) considers alpha arbutin safe at up to 2% in face creams and up to 0.5% in body lotions.