Glutathione

What is glutathione?

Glutathione is a small molecule made of three amino acids: glutamic acid, cysteine and glycine. The body produces it itself, and it is one of the most important antioxidants in our cells. On the INCI list it appears as Glutathione. In Korea and other Asian countries, glutathione is especially popular as a glow and brightening ingredient.

How does glutathione work on the skin?

• Antioxidant: glutathione neutralises free radicals and helps regenerate other antioxidants such as vitamin C.
• Brightening: glutathione inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase and steers melanin production towards lighter pheomelanin rather than dark eumelanin.
• Even tone: dark spots and post-acne marks can look lighter over time.

Which skin types is glutathione suitable for?

• dark spots and post-acne marks – see Pigmentation
• a dull, tired complexion
• all skin types, including sensitive skin, as glutathione itself is hardly irritating

How to use glutathione

1. After cleansing, apply a glutathione toner or ampoule.
2. Continue with serum and cream.
3. Always use sunscreen in the morning – without UV protection, dark spots keep coming back.

Glutathione is suitable for morning and evening. Allow eight to ten weeks for visible results.

What can you combine glutathione with?

• Vitamin C – the two antioxidants complement each other
• Niacinamide reduces the transfer of pigment to skin cells
• Tranexamic acid and alpha arbutin target other stages of pigment production

Glutathione in Korean skincare

Korean brands almost always combine glutathione with other brightening ingredients. From our range: the Glutathione Niacinamide Ampoule Serum from APLB, the No.5 Glutathione TXA Advanced Dark Spot Ampoule Concentrate from numbuzin and the AGE-R Glutathione Glow line from medicube with toner, serum and capsule cream. You’ll find more products for dark spots under Pigmentation.

What does the research say?

In a placebo-controlled double-blind study with 30 healthy women, a lotion with 2% oxidised glutathione reduced the melanin content of the skin more than the placebo over ten weeks. Skin moisture, wrinkle formation and smoothness also improved (Watanabe et al., Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2014).