Urea

What is urea?

Urea is part of the natural moisturising factor in the skin’s outermost layer – the substances the skin uses to hold on to water. Very dry skin often contains less urea. In cosmetics, urea is produced synthetically and is very pure.

How does urea work on the skin?

The effect depends on the concentration:

• up to about 10%: urea binds moisture and supports the skin barrier – skin feels softer and smoother.
• from about 10%: urea also has a keratolytic effect, meaning it loosens hardened skin and rough flakes.
• very high concentrations from about 30% are mainly used on feet and heels.

Which skin types is urea suitable for?

• dry and very dry skin that feels tight – see Dryness
• rough, flaky patches on face, body, elbows and feet
• skin that quickly cracks in winter

Urea can sting briefly on irritated or broken skin. If you have atopic dermatitis, start with low concentrations. Urea products aren’t suitable for babies and toddlers.

How to use urea

1. Apply urea products to slightly damp skin after cleansing.
2. On the face, low concentrations in a serum or cream are enough.
3. For feet and heels, rich balms or masks with more urea work well.

You can use urea morning and evening.

What can you combine urea with?

• Hyaluronic acid draws extra water into the skin
• Ceramides hold moisture in the skin barrier
• Panthenol soothes and supports repair
• Lactic acid is also part of the natural moisturising factor and smooths the skin

Urea in Korean skincare

In K-beauty, urea is usually found at low concentrations in toners, serums or cleansers – as a moisture booster alongside hyaluronic acid and ceramides. From our range: the Repair Milky Urea Glow Bubble Serum from shaishaishai with urea and peptides, the Cellup Micro Foam Cleanser from LAGOM, the Kojic Acid & Papaya Body Lotion from Koji White and the Centella Deep Soothing Ritual Foot Mask from baren for dry feet.

What does the research say?

A review of clinical studies describes urea as a well-researched and safe ingredient: at low concentrations it moisturises, from about 10% it loosens hardened skin. Its benefits are documented for dry skin, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, among others (Pan et al., Dermatology Online Journal, 2013).