Propolis

What is propolis?

Propolis – also called bee glue – is a sticky substance bees make from tree resins, wax and their saliva. They use it to seal the hive and protect it from bacteria and fungi. Propolis contains flavonoids and phenolic acids, among other things. In Korean skincare the extract is especially popular in honey-coloured toners, serums and ampoules.

How does propolis work on the skin?

• Soothing: propolis can calm redness and irritated skin.
• Antioxidant: its flavonoids help protect the skin from free radicals.
• Antibacterial: in the lab, propolis inhibits the growth of acne bacteria – which is why it is popular in care for blemish-prone skin.
• Glow and hydration: propolis products often have a light, honey-like texture that makes skin look plumper and more radiant.

Which skin types is propolis suitable for?

• blemish-prone skin – see skincare for acne & blemishes
• dry, dull skin that needs more glow – see glow skincare
• combination skin that needs soothing without feeling heavy

Important: propolis is a known contact allergen. If you react to bee products, pollen or balsam of Peru, avoid propolis. Always patch-test new products on a small area of skin first.

How to use propolis

1. Pat a propolis toner or essence into the skin after cleansing.
2. Apply a propolis serum or ampoule – morning and/or evening.
3. Finish with a moisturiser, and sunscreen during the day.

What can you combine propolis with?

• Niacinamide for refined-looking skin and more glow – as in the Glow Serum by Beauty of Joseon
• Centella asiatica for extra soothing
• Hyaluronic acid for more hydration
• Panthenol for the skin barrier

Propolis in Korean skincare

Best known are the Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide by Beauty of Joseon and COSRX’s Full Fit Propolis line with the Synergy Toner, Light Ampoule, Light Cream and Propolis Honey Overnight Mask. There is also iUNIK’s Propolis Vitamin Synergy Serum with propolis and vitamins.

What does the research say?

In lab studies, propolis is antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. In a small double-blind study, a cream with propolis, tea tree oil and aloe vera improved mild to moderate acne at least as well as a cream with the antibiotic erythromycin (Mazzarello et al., Clinical Pharmacology: Advances and Applications, 2018). Larger studies on propolis alone are still lacking.