Peptides

What are peptides?

Peptides consist of two to around fifty amino acids linked together like beads on a string. Longer chains are called proteins – including collagen, elastin and keratin, which give the skin structure, firmness and resilience. Because peptides are much smaller than these proteins, they can be used in a targeted way in serums, creams and eye care.

In the skin, peptides naturally act as messengers: when collagen fibres break down, small fragments are formed that signal skin cells to produce new collagen. Cosmetic peptides mimic this principle. On the INCI list you can recognise them by names such as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 or Copper Tripeptide-1.

How do peptides work on the skin?

Depending on their structure, peptides have different tasks. In skincare, there are four main groups:

• Signal peptides (e.g. palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, known as Matrixyl™) stimulate the skin to produce more collagen and elastin. They are the best-studied group.
• Carrier peptides (e.g. copper tripeptide-1, also called GHK-Cu) transport trace elements such as copper into the skin, which are important for regeneration and wound healing.
• Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides (e.g. acetyl hexapeptide-8, known as Argireline) can visibly smooth expression lines by slightly relaxing muscle tension – which is why they are often called a “topical Botox alternative”.
• Enzyme-inhibiting peptides (e.g. from soy or silk protein) slow down enzymes that break down collagen, protecting the existing skin structure.

The result of regular use: skin looks firmer and plumper, fine lines become less visible and the skin barrier is strengthened, because many peptides also bind moisture.

Which skin types are peptides suitable for?

Peptides are considered very well tolerated and suit almost all skin types – including sensitive skin that doesn’t get on with retinol or acids. They especially benefit:

• mature skin with declining firmness and first wrinkles – find matching products in our Anti-ageing skincare
• dry and stressed skin that needs hydration and barrier care
• sensitive skin looking for a gentle alternative to retinoids
• the eye area, where the skin is particularly thin – which is why peptides are a classic in eye creams and eye patches

From your mid-twenties, when the body’s own collagen production slowly declines, peptides can be used preventively.

How to use peptides

Peptides work best where they stay on the skin longer – in serums, ampoules, creams and eye care rather than cleansers.

1. Cleanse your face and apply a toner.
2. Work a peptide serum or ampoule into slightly damp skin.
3. Finish with a cream, and in the morning also with sunscreen.

You can use peptides morning and evening. Patience is key: visible results usually appear after eight to twelve weeks of regular use, because that’s how long the skin needs to renew its structural proteins.

What can you combine peptides with?

Peptides are real team players. They combine well with:

• Hyaluronic acid for extra hydration and plump-looking skin
• Niacinamide for a stronger skin barrier and a more even complexion
• Ceramides for protected, resilient skin
• PDRN and collagen – a particularly popular anti-ageing duo in K-beauty

Take some care with strongly acidic products: high-strength AHA or BHA peels and pure vitamin C serums (ascorbic acid) with a very low pH can make some peptides less stable. It’s best to apply them at different times of day – for example vitamin C in the morning and peptides in the evening. Don’t layer copper peptides directly with vitamin C or retinoids.

Peptides in Korean skincare

Korean brands especially like to use peptides as a team: many K-beauty serums contain several peptides at once – such as “The 6 Peptide Skin Booster” from COSRX or Medi-Peel’s “Peptide 9” line. Peptides are also often combined with PDRN, collagen, Centella Asiatica or snail mucin to bring anti-ageing and soothing together in one step. Our Korean peptide skincare collection has more than 240 products with peptides – from ampoules and eye creams to eye patches.

What does the research say?

After retinoids, peptides are among the best-studied anti-ageing ingredients. In a twelve-week, placebo-controlled study with palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, women with photo-aged skin showed a measurable improvement in wrinkles and skin texture (Robinson et al., International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2005). A review summarises that several cosmetic peptides have shown positive effects on fine lines, elasticity and hydration in clinical studies (Schagen, Cosmetics, 2017).

At the same time, peptides are relatively large molecules and only penetrate the skin to a limited extent. How well a product works therefore depends heavily on formulation, concentration and regular use. Peptides don’t replace aesthetic treatments, but they are a gentle, well-tolerated addition to any anti-ageing routine.