Adenosine

What is adenosine?

Adenosine is a nucleoside made up of the base adenine and the sugar ribose. The body produces it itself: it is a building block of the energy carrier ATP and of RNA. For cosmetics, adenosine is usually made biotechnologically. In ingredient lists it appears as “Adenosine”.

How does adenosine work on the skin?

• Against wrinkles: adenosine binds to receptors on fibroblasts – the cells that make collagen – and stimulates them.
• More elasticity: over time, the skin looks firmer and smoother.
• Gentle: adenosine is hardly irritating and does not make the skin more sensitive to light.

Why is adenosine in so many Korean creams?

For a product to count officially as a functional cosmetic for wrinkle improvement in Korea, it needs an active approved by the MFDS authority at the specified level, or its own proof of efficacy. Adenosine is one of these standard actives, at a concentration of 0.04%. That’s why you’ll find it in countless creams, serums, eye creams and even sunscreens – often as a supporting active.

Which skin types is adenosine suitable for?

• first lines and mature skin – see anti-ageing skincare
• sensitive skin that doesn’t tolerate retinoids well
• all skin types as a gentle addition to a daily routine

How to use adenosine

1. Adenosine usually comes in creams, serums or eye creams – simply apply them as usual, morning and evening.
2. Consistency matters more than quantity: visible effects take a few weeks.
3. Don’t forget sunscreen during the day – it’s the most effective protection against new wrinkles.

What can you combine adenosine with?

• Retinol – adenosine complements it well and isn’t irritating itself
• Peptides and collagen for more firmness
• Niacinamide for a more even skin tone
• NAD+ for skin cell energy

Adenosine in Korean skincare

You’ll find adenosine, for example, in the 345 Relief Cream by Dr. Althea, The Retinol 0.1 Cream by COSRX, the PDRN Volume Fill-it Booster Crème by Abib, the Beta-Glucan Daily Moisture Cream by iUNIK, the Madagascar Centella Poremizing Light Gel Cream by SKIN1004 and the Birch Juice Moisturizing Sunscreen by ROUND LAB.

What does the research say?

Lab studies show that adenosine stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen. There are also individual clinical studies, for example with adenosine microneedle patches, that improved wrinkles, dermal density and elasticity (Kang et al., International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018). Large independent long-term studies are lacking, however. Adenosine is therefore seen as a gentle, well-tolerated supporting active – not a replacement for retinoids.