Exosomes

What are exosomes?

Exosomes are tiny membrane-bound vesicles that cells release into their surroundings. They carry proteins, lipids and RNA and act as a kind of messaging system between cells. In aesthetic medicine, exosomes are used after microneedling, for example. In Korea, they have also been a big trend in serums and ampoules for several years.

Where do exosomes in cosmetics come from?

• plant exosomes, often called “exosome-like vesicles”, e.g. from centella, roses, rice or ginseng
• exosomes from fermentation, for example from lactic acid bacteria
• exosomes of human origin are not allowed in cosmetics in the EU and Switzerland, as cells, tissues and products of human origin are banned there.

How do exosomes work on the skin?

• Regeneration: the messenger substances they contain are meant to support skin renewal.
• Soothing: plant exosomes, e.g. from centella, have a calming effect.
• Glow and evenness: many products promise smoother texture and finer-looking pores.

Good to know: many of these effects have so far been shown mainly in the lab. Part of the visible result often comes from other ingredients, such as PDRN, peptides or spicules.

Exosome shots with spicules

Many Korean “exosome shots” also contain spicules – fine, needle-like particles from marine sponges. They create a noticeable tingle and are meant to help actives absorb. The number in the product name (e.g. 2000 or 7500) usually indicates the spicule concentration: the higher, the more intense.

• Start with a low concentration and use spicule products 2 to 3 evenings a week.
• Don’t use them on the same evening as retinol or strong acids such as AHA.
• Don’t apply them to broken, inflamed or freshly shaved skin.

How to use exosomes

1. Apply an exosome serum or ampoule after cleansing and toner.
2. Products without spicules can be used daily; those with spicules are best used in the evening only and not every day.
3. Follow with a soothing moisturiser and wear sunscreen during the day.

Exosomes in Korean skincare

From our range: the GROW:TURN Exosome Brush Ampoule and the Grow:Turn Exosome Spicule Ampoule 3000 by lilyeve, the One Day Exosome Shot Pore Ampoule, the PDRN Pink Collagen Exosome Shot Serum and the Azelaic Acid Exosome Shot by medicube, and the PDRN EXOSOME Skinplaning Glaze Mask by COSRX. You’ll find them all in our exosome skincare collection.

What does the research say?

Exosomes are being researched intensively in dermatology, for example for wound healing and after aesthetic treatments. Most results so far come from cell and animal studies. Large clinical studies on cosmetic products with plant exosomes are still lacking. Exosomes are therefore an exciting but still young ingredient.