Korean beauty has gained global recognition for its innovative, ingredient-forward approach to skincare. One of the most impactful ingredient families in this realm is exfoliating acids. Known for transforming dull and congested complexions, acids such as AHA, BHA, and PHA are essential tools in any K-beauty enthusiast’s regimen. Whether your concern is acne, rough texture, or early signs of aging, these powerful exfoliants offer targeted solutions tailored to different skin types.

This guide unpacks the unique properties of each acid type, how to use them safely, and what to pair them with to maximize results in your Korean skincare routine.

Understanding Acids: How They Improve Your Skin

Unlike physical exfoliants that scrub away dead skin with friction, chemical exfoliants work more gently and precisely. These acids dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, helping to reveal smoother, brighter, and clearer skin beneath the surface. Korean skincare favors this method due to its effectiveness and low irritation potential when used correctly.

The most common exfoliating acids include:

• AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) – Surface exfoliation for dry or mature skin
• BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids) – Deep pore cleansing for oily or acne-prone skin
• PHA (Polyhydroxy Acids) – Gentle exfoliation for sensitive skin

 

AHAs: Brightening and Smoothing for Dry Skin

Alpha Hydroxy Acids are water-soluble molecules that focus on improving the skin’s surface. Common forms include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid, all of which gently shed dead skin cells and enhance skin clarity. AHAs are especially helpful for dry, flaky skin and those looking to reduce the appearance of fine lines and uneven tone.

These acids also support moisture retention, making them ideal for dry or aging skin types. When integrated into your routine 2–3 times a week, AHAs can restore a radiant glow and soften rough patches without the need for abrasive scrubs.

BHAs: Targeting Congestion and Acne at the Source

Beta Hydroxy Acids, such as salicylic acid, penetrate deeper into the skin thanks to their oil-soluble nature. This makes BHAs particularly effective at clearing clogged pores, controlling oil production, and treating acne-prone skin. Unlike AHAs, BHAs work inside the pore lining, breaking down sebum buildup and reducing blackheads and whiteheads over time.

For those who struggle with frequent breakouts or an oily T-zone, BHAs are a powerful addition to your skincare lineup. They're also known for their anti-inflammatory effects, helping to calm active blemishes and redness.

PHAs: A Gentle Yet Effective Choice for Sensitive Skin

Polyhydroxy Acids offer a milder alternative for those with reactive or sensitive skin. With larger molecular structures, PHAs exfoliate more gradually, minimizing irritation while still providing hydration and skin-smoothing benefits. Common PHAs like gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are often paired with soothing ingredients to maintain barrier integrity.

These acids are ideal for individuals with conditions such as rosacea or eczema, who still want the benefits of chemical exfoliation without the risk of flare-ups. Over time, PHAs also promote skin cell turnover and improve texture, just like their stronger counterparts.

How to Use Exfoliating Acids Safely and Effectively

While acids are transformative, using them correctly is essential. Begin with applications no more than 2–3 times weekly and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance. Always apply sunscreen in the morning, as exfoliation can increase sun sensitivity. Avoid combining multiple active ingredients (like retinol and acids) unless guided by a dermatologist.

Hydration is key—pair exfoliating acids with nourishing toners or serums to strengthen the skin barrier. A great choice for post-exfoliation hydration is the Rice Toner by I’m From, known for its brightening and soothing properties.

77.78% Rice for moist and glowing skin. Rice has been well-known as a natural ingredient for its vitilizing ang glowing effect in Korea traditionally.

Another must-try is the Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Toner,

A cult-favorite formulation combining multiple acids with niacinamide and tea tree to target blemishes and enhance skin clarity.

 

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, chemical exfoliants can help reduce the appearance of fine lines, dullness, and acne when used properly.

Choosing the Right Acid for Your Skin Type

Each acid group offers unique advantages based on skin needs:

• AHAs suit dry or aging skin seeking radiance and smoother texture.
• BHAs are best for oily skin and persistent breakouts.
• PHAs are ideal for delicate or sensitized skin types.

Incorporating the right acid into your routine can deliver visible improvements in tone, texture, and overall skin health. Whether you’re new to Korean skincare or looking to elevate your current regimen, acids offer a customizable way to level up your results.

Related Topics and Complementary Ingredients

If you’re exploring exfoliating acids, you might also benefit from learning about hydrating essences, skin barrier creams, and SPF protection. These components work synergistically with acids to maintain a balanced, glowing complexion. Remember: skincare is a journey—listen to your skin, adjust as needed, and enjoy the process.